The numbers are in, and this New York Fashion Week was absolutely abysmal in regards to diversity.

The number of plus-size models at New York Fashion Week decreased nearly three-fold from last September.

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According to The Fashion Spot's diversity report, a record 90 plus-size models walked on runways for the Spring/Summer 2018 shows, which took place last September. This season saw a major drop: only 26 plus-size models. That's a hell of a drop.

Even without Addition Elle and Torrid, the numbers from last season were still higher.

Even if we disregarded Addition Elle and Torrid, which contributed to the spike in plus-size models used last season, the number of plus-size models still exceeded the amount we saw this season: 34 to 26.

Only five shows even cast plus-size models.

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Christian Siriano led the pack with 10 plus-size models, followed by Chromat, who cast nine. Michael Kors cast two, while Eckhaus Latta and Prabal Gurung only had one each. Ashley Graham led the pack with the most runway appearances, with Sabina Karlsson right behind her.

This season marks the first season since Fall 2016 that the number of appearances by plus-size models actually decreased.

Fall 2016 saw an abysmal four plus-size models hit the runway. And while we have been steadily increasing since then, this season marked a tragic drop.

Additionally, the fact that TWO shows — Chromat and Christian Siriano — contribute to 19 of the 26 plus-size appearances, is dreadful.

Really, this season proved tokenism is alive and well.

Of the five shows that cast plus-size models this fashion week, Graham walked in three. In one of those shows, Prabal Gurung, she was the only plus-size model cast.

While we love Graham and this isn't a dig at her at all, it highlights the problem with designers who still seem to think the plus-size market begins and ends with Graham. That's not true at all. Graham is representative of one size, one woman, one body type, and for the record, she doesn't even consider herself "plus-size."

To truly impact the plus-size market, you have to cast women other than Graham. Maybe even someone with a non-hourglass body?

In short, we have a lot of work to do.

While the number of models of color increased since last season by 0.4%, factors like weight and age representation have shrunk. 

Designers, photographers, and modeling agencies alike have to do more. Much more. We'll be waiting.

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